Why Do These Two Chairs Look Alike, But Don't Cost the Same? Designer's Guide

What’s hiding underneath the fabric? And why it matters

UPHOLSTERY UNCOVERED

Has the hunt for the elusive sofa available in less than 6 to 9 months enticed your clients to go rogue? Have they sent you random snapshots of upholstery they “helpfully” found online or in a local retail store? And now they’re questioning you because they found something that looks EXACTLY like the one you recommended, but maybe thousands of dollars cheaper?!

Great…now what?

Hang in there with me. When you get to the bottom, I have an upholstery reference guide just for YOU!

The urge to replace a sofa after what feels like a lifetime of binge streaming feels universal, Collectively, we’ve created a butt-shaped divot from sitting in one spot. Your clients really WANT a new sofa NOW! But you just can’t get your hands on one!

Even after 2 years, this remains a real problem. I’m sure you‘ve seen the various posts, newsletters, and announcements explaining why. So I'm not going to add to that here. Unfortunately, it appears it’s not going away any time soon. ARGH…

I’m genuinely empathetic. I’m tired of looking at my sofa too.

So how do we help our clients here? How do we explain to them that the wait will be worth it when you might not even understand the difference yourself? As I write this I can hear my mom in my head - finger gently wagging - “Patience is a virtue, My Dear” But I’m not sure that clients would respond favorably to that admonition.

It’s not your fault that we weren’t taught the intricacies of upholstery construction in design school. Maybe there was a chapter about what is considered the gold standard, kiln-dried and 8-way hand-tied, but that’s about it. As a design professional responsible for our client’s best interests aesthetically, functionally, and financially it’s important to understand the competition.

I’m not going to sugarcoat this.

People are weird about their seating in a way they aren’t about a coffee table. Get it right and you’re a rock star! Get it wrong? Well…you know what happens next.

Can you confidently express to your clients why what you’re recommending is worth both the wait and the dollars over what they found online? Believe me when I tell you they’re finding similar items to that piece you carefully selected for them because value-engineered pieces are rampant online. RAMPANT! (voice raised, fist in the air)

What’s a good-intentioned designer to do? Read on Dear Design Professional. Read on.

Richelle Plett, designer and UPHOLSTERY UNCOVERED educator

Hello! It’s nice to meet you!

I’m Richelle, I’m a practicing interior designer and I also teach design professionals about the science of upholstery construction - how the construction materials work together in tandem to create the best seating experience for your clients’ needs. I previously owned an upholstery workroom that specialized in restoring vintage seating and believe me when I tell you, I’ve seen exactly how different construction methods and materials used over generations wear in real life. If you’re a design professional, I invite you to check out my upcoming UPHOLSTERY UNCOVERED sessions. Link HERE

Today I’m here today to share a few key points that are never discussed in design school. Get ready. I’m going to spill the proverbial tea.

That pretty fabric is covering a multitude of VALUE-ENGINEERING construction “sins”

You can’t compare apples to apples here when you’re looking at a cute blue swivel chair from a Barn-Barrel-Mart Big Box retailer to a well-crafted piece that is reupholster-able. This is where I inject my personal bias. For me personally, the litmus test for the BEST quality of construction is “does it make sense to reupholster it?”

Georgina Swivel by Kristin Drohan Collection

Donovan Swivel by AllModern

Now before you tell me “Richelle! My clients are afraid to invest in trade upholstery because their kids are going to trash it!” I’m going to reply (with my mother’s wagging finger) “that’s exactly WHY they should have a well-made piece”. The insides of that bargain piece will fail your clients long before the little terrors ruin that hard-as-nails, family-friendly fabric. Trust me on this one.

I was reminded last week during a call with a designer who’s been established in business FOR YEARS and had no clue why she should even care what’s going on under the fabric. (Yes, I may have gasped and clutched my pearls)

Here’s the reason you should care. It’s called Value Engineering, and, in a nutshell, it means that in order to reach a predetermined price, manufacturers will remove various elements of “quality” construction that inherently make a piece durable.

Have you ever bought a piece of clothing that looked ah-mazing online and was such an incredible bargain? And then you washed it - and it came out of the dryer looking like a shadow of its former self? That’s because it was Value Engineered. Corners were cut in both materials and construction to produce that product at that price point that made you think it was a good deal.

Cabinet and plumbing design specialists know this trick too

Barn-Barrel-Mart Big Box manufacturers have done a fair amount of market research to know what the average consumer will PAY for a cute, blue swivel chair. Their next step is to Value Engineer the construction. Where exactly do you think they make those quality cuts? I’ll give you a minute…

Here’s a little behind the scenes for you.

The first level of construction manufacturing to go to attain a price point is the frame. Plywood and OSB (Oriented Strand Board) are cheaper both in materials and labor than solid lumber frames. A CNC machine can route out thousands and thousands of the same shape with a little bit of variation here or there. Tweak that length here, change that arm shape a little bit there. Staple those puppies together? Boom. Done. Next.

An important note here - not all ply frames are “bad.” When they are jigged together, they are often incredibly sturdy. But plywood frames are rarely “worth it” to reupholster if that’s your client’s future intention.

The second construction material engineered out is the foundational spring-up system. Typically, you won’t see 8-way hand-tied coil springs in a plywood frame because they require solid lumber to nail into, plywood will delaminate when nailed into the layers. Some manufacturers have added solid lumber to their ply frames, but that’s a story for another day.

The most cost-effective spring-up systems are sinuous and elastic webbing. Both are less labor-intensive and lighter in weight than 8-way coil springs. Does “free shipping sound familiar?” Nothing is free - a compromise was made.

Here’s what that looks like in real life.

Have you ever been in a restaurant booth and the seat just kind of sunk beneath you? That’s a tell-tell sign that the sinuous spring has given way. Granted, that typically happens when the sitter’s weight exceeds the capacity of the steel wire. And in case you’re wondering, that amount is 250lbs. (Ummm…Covid 20 anyone?)

But the place where minimum quality meets acceptable quality is in the seating cushions. Here’s the thing. Many manufacturers - especially those found rampant online - build PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE into their products so that you buy them more often. What does that mean? It means it’s DESIGNED to fail.

Ever notice that your phone works fine up until the warranty wears out? Then suddenly, it’s a piece of technology poop that you have to replace. It’s the very same thing with upholstery. There’s an anticipated life span built into that Barn-Barrel-Mart Big Box sofa and it’s shorter than you probably think so that you’ll come back – and buy another one.

Side note - just because a foam cushion is firm, that doesn’t mean it’s going to last longer. This is a popular topic in my UPHOLSTERY UNCOVERED class.

That sofa your client found for about $1500 has an anticipated life span of 3 years with “average” daily use. Average means that you sit there nicely like you would if you were meeting the in-laws for the first time. No jumping or squirming around. No sitting on the arms. No Superman lofting off the back. No pillow forts. In other words - no kids.

So how did I arrive at that $1500 number? Because it’s the sweet spot manufacturers want to meet because consumers have made it a ranking search term as “sofas under $1500.” And how did consumers arrive at that magic number when they really don’t have a clear understanding of what goes INSIDE an upholstered piece. See why your clients need you to be educated?

It’s all up to YOU dear Designer.

I know that lead times are long right now, but have you heard the saying “short-term sacrifices for long-term gains?” My Mom may have said that one too. Feel free to use it.

PEACE AND LOVE,Richelle

Thanks for reading all the way to the end! Here’s my Thank You Gift!

And if you’d like more information on upcoming UPHOLSTERY UNCOVERED sessions, feel free to hop on over and check it out!

SWIPE LEFT for upholstery

SWIPE LEFT

A random analogy came to me the other day and I’ve been really pondering on it. Is it too “cliché,” too tacky? My mom says its, “potentially off-putting” At this age, I really should listen to my mom, but here goes. Because...well, I like analogies and I think it’s funny.

What if we picked our spouses or significant others the way we pick upholstery?

When you start shopping, everything looks beautiful!

 I can imagine the scenario now, late-night chardonnay shopping on your phone (you know you do it – I do too)

“Hey. You’re looking good! I’ve been searching for YOU for-ever! That navy velvet looks really hot on you, and I’m loving your curvy arms and super sleek legs! Yeah baby. Single cushion? Tufts everywhere? No problem – I like high maintenance! Plus…at that price? With free shipping? I’d have to be insane to not want you!”

Fast forward a year or so.

“I’m just not sure how this is working out for us. Clearly this relationship isn’t going anywhere. Somehow, I thought you were going to be more supportive! More durable. I didn’t really expect that every time I sat on you I’d have to fix you. I had no idea your tufts would be so, how can I say this nicely…wimpy. You looked so plump and luscious in your profile picture! You know, It’s okay. It’s not you…It’s me. (but really, it’s you)”

Hold on. Just bear with me a minute. This is where I’m going to lose a few of you.

Yes, I know that’s a super simplistic analogy and that many lovely, high quality people are both incredibly trendy AND well-built, thank you very much. And yes, I understand that for many people, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and they don’t bother to even pay attention to the outside – because “true beauty is found within.” And to those of you uttering that phrase to yourself, number one, your momma raised you right and number two?  I thank you for making my point for me!

So how about THIS honest approach instead?

“You know. I’ve really taken the time to think about who I am and what I need in my life. I’ve been around the block a bit and I’m comfortable with who I am. I know what I want, and if you fit into it…great!

I like long Netflix marathons, so I’m going to need you to need be supportive for hours on end. Fair warning, this is a potential deal breaker for me. Sometimes, I’ll even fall asleep on you and maybe I’ll just stay there all night. I expect comfort and I won’t settle for less!

I drink red wine and coffee and I tend to spill. But here’s the thing, I MUST be able to clean you up. Look, I know that’s asking a lot and I realize that will take some effort on my part. I’m just being honest here.

I’ll admit, I’m a bit of a commitment-phobe so that means you need to be both classic and flexible. I just can’t make any promises about what your surroundings are going to look like in a few years. I’m sure you’re lovely and popular, but too trendy and I know that I’ll get tired of looking at you…and neither one of us wants that. I just don’t have time, energy or money to keep doing this “thing” over and over every few years! I want one and done, can we do this? Did I mention I have 4 children and a dog?”

If you want your upholstery to be a long-term commitment, there are a few things it MUST have in its construction. I’m not going to talk today about how we live in a disposable society, or how 9.8 MILLION TONS of furniture account for American trash. That’s a soap box for another day. But if you want to know how to make informed buying decisions about your upholstery, check out my online courses here.

I want you to be an educated consumer!

We spend more time reading the labels on our cereal boxes than we spend really researching about what is going on inside our sofa. Why aren’t we taking the time to learn about what is happening underneath that pretty fabric on our upholstery? Consumerism. Fast fashion. Keeping up with the Jones – or Kardashians or whatever. Sorry guys. That’s just NOT my thing and I’m unapologetic about it!

First let’s talk about the frame. A great chair relationship starts with a great frame! Stylistically? Stripped down, it’s just a box with different components added to create differently shaped arms, different types of backs, maybe even fancy legs. But without a good, solid lumber frame, the stress and weight of daily wear will cause it to crumble under normal couch potato usage. Frames should be built from kiln-dried hardwood, no. that is not the same as “engineered hardwood.” Not even close. Straight lumber, not warped, no knot-holes and preferably oak or maple. The purpose of kiln dried is to reduce moisture within the grain.

Vintage MCM chair being reglued at Sitzen workroom

Joints should be double doweled, glued, blocked, and for good measure, screwed to keep that all important frame foundation square. Have you ever lifted the corner of a sofa and the rest of it stayed on the floor? Did it creak when you lifted it? It was likely stapled together. Staples don’t hold the grain of the wood together; the holes will loosen over time with weight pressure and their ability to keep the wood held tightly together diminishes. So, always choose frames that are reinforced with dowels, blocks and screws. Frames constructed this way will stand up to heavy wear, multiple superman leaps off the back (I know…no one in YOUR house ever does that) and maybe most importantly in this age, repeated moves.

Legs. Can we talk about legs for a minute? They really need to be an integral part of the frame, at the very minimum, the back legs should be part of the structure. When your seat has a long, consistent piece of wood with a solid graining pattern going from the top of the chair down to the floor, that is strength. For anyone who ever tips back in their chair, you know who you are and why this is important.

How about the foundation? Heavy jute webbing woven in a basket weave with very little space between straps is best. It is attached to the underside of the lumber frame to act as a foundation base for individual steel coil springs which come in different heights and the size will depend on the depth of the rail (the front part of the frame box) Steel spring coils can be either 8 gauge for firm or 9 gauge for medium firmness. These coil springs deflect independently and spring back into shape almost indefinitely. When reupholstering or restoring upholstery, the original springs are almost always reusable. In new construction, I’ve seen a movement toward nylon webbing to cut down on manufacturing costs, but I’m old school.

The individual coils are attached to the webbing base with a thick thread or a metal clinch-it clips. (These metal clinch-it clips are why you should be careful running you hand on the underside of coil spring upholstery.) The springs are tied together from back to front, side to side, and corners to corners to create what is often referred to as 8-way hand tied.

• RANDOM TRIVIA: Before spring tying, springs were just placed on the foundation and stuffed with wool, straw or other natural fiber to hold them in place.

Here’s Bruce in the process of 8-way tying springs.

I really prefer when coil spring upholstery has a spring front edge, and here’s why. Downward pressure isn’t only in the tush part, it’s also in the knee area. Think about how you sit. When your behind is down, it’s pretty much stuck there. But what are your legs doing? I bet they’re fidgeting, crossing, stretched straight out. All that repeated movement creates compression on the front of a cushion. When the cushion is on a solid front edge rail, it has nowhere to go except to collapse, but with a spring front edge? It can deflect and preserve the front of your cushion, allowing it to last longer and keep its shape.

Let’s talk a bit about that seat cushion, shall we? There is a lot of debate about cushion fillings. There are people who sit firmly (Ha! See how I did that?) in the camp of “spring/down cushions are the best!” There are others who feel that only latex foam is the responsible choice, followed by an equally large contingency for standard polyurethane foam. I personally think that there is no right answer. There are pluses and minuses for each option and only your tush knows what it prefers. I will add this one caveat. If you choose to use a polyurethane, only purchase HR or High Resiliency foam and here’s why.

Foam, a petroleum based product, is rated with a series of four numbers. The first two digits are for density, the next two are for Indention Load Deflection, or ILD. Density is measured by weight per cubic foot. The higher the density, the firmer and heavier the foam because there is more product per cubic foot thus fewer air holes. More product per cubic foot translates to long term shape retention because the cells of the foam can support itself with product to maintain its shape for years to come. A High Resiliency foam is 3.0lb per cubic foot. Most manufactured furniture is 1.8lb per cubic foot and accounts for the sag and compression in cushions after just a couple of years of use.

Indention Load Deflection, ILD means how many pounds of pressure will it take to compress a piece of foam to 25% of its original height. For example, most upholstery seating foam is 4” thick. How many pounds of pressure will it take to push down the cushion 1”? An HR30 foam (considered a good rated foam) will take 30lbs of pressure. For a firmer cushion, many of my clients preferred an HR50, especially elderly or those with back or hip problems. A higher quality polyurethane foam will last about 15 years with regular use

Inner coil spring cushions are my personal favorite. But I will say this…I prefer vintage coil cushions to modern coil cushions. I feel like the quality of the Marshall spring units used these days isn’t what it used to be, and my professional upholsterer friends agree with me. It seems like the coil is a lighter gauge, somehow. And are often nestled in a foam box casing anyway, that foam may or may not be a higher quality, long wearing foam. It’s hard to know. Fewer manufacturers create proper spring coil cushions with multiple layers of cotton wrapping followed by a muslin wrap with a down envelope, because frankly it is costly.

Vintage sofa in progress, fabric by Trend

A less common and much more expensive seating option is latex foam cushions. Gaining in popularity among the “green set” Latex supporters assert that Polyurethane foam off-gasses harmful chemicals into the air and that Latex is biodegradable. I’m still researching the properties of latex and I’ll get back with you on the details on if its manufacturing process. From an informal survey of professional upholsterers, they find it clumsy to work with, with a sofa size slab weighing about 50lbs. It is dense, heavy and very susceptible to degradation in heat and sunlight. Consumers will want to keep their upholstered pieces away from windows and hot air vents or risk their cushions becoming a crumbly mass of powdery dust. Those who have touched a crunchy, decomposed vintage chair know what I’m talking about.

Cushions are wrapped in either a down and feather blend envelope casing or a synthetic product called Dacron. While down has a really nice loft and creates a lovely crown effect, there are concerns about harvesting methods for the feathers and a gentler option is bamboo or microfiber filling. Which ever loose fiber is chosen, it will require regular maintenance to keep the airy loft effect. Fibers and feathers notoriously clump, leaving Dacron a popular choice for low care seating.

Moving up to the arms of an upholstered piece. We need to have a little chat here about a personal habit many of us have, (cue sad public service announcement music) Arm Sitting. Many people don’t give a second thought to perching on an upholstered arm at a party or gathering. What they don’t know is if that arm can support their weight and chances are, it can’t. Yet another reason why having legs as an integral part of the frame construction is so important!

When the front of the arm extends downward and terminates in a leg, as in a chair with a straight cushion, as opposed to a t-cushion, weight goes straight to the floor. Stress on the corner joints is minimized. But that’s a side note. Poorly constructed frames made of engineered wood, soft or knotty lumber, will buckle under the weight of a hefty arm sitter. Cardboard wrapped arms will crush, never to bounce back and short of reupholstering, they are beyond hope or repair. The same goes for an upholstered back. People perch there too! Only a kiln dried hardwood frame with vertical back rails will support a back sitter.

Side by side comparison of two chair frames

Back cushions, just like seat cushions they are a personal preference, but some materials hold up better than others. My personal preference is for a tight back style sofa or chair because loose cushions make me nutty; they always need to be fluffed or adjusted. But on a positive note if you have a loose back cushion sofa, it can double as extra sleeping for guests because the width increases when the back cushions are removed. The key to loose back cushions is maintenance. The fill needs fluffed daily whether its down or synthetic, it will tend to clump in the corners and bottom of the cushion. Pillow fight anyone?

Have I left anything out about frame construction? I hope not.  Fabric is a whole other topic and one I’ll get into soon, but this is enough to digest for today. There are great upholstered frames out there to buy, if you are an informed consumer. Don’t just trust a brand to be good quality. Every manufacturer line has good frames and not-so-good frames. Investigate or buy vintage for a sure thing! Some days it feels as though I’m swimming upstream trying to convince consumers to search for vintage pieces to restore. The same tips I’ve shared here for new frames are valid for vintage and odds are you’ll have a much better product even after the investment of reupholstery than you would have for a similar price buying new.

One last soapbox stance. Invest in local upholstery craftsmen and really understand where your dollars are going!

Hi! I’m Richelle! I teach people who sit on sofas about the construction of upholstery and how to make sure it lasts!

I owned and operated a design studio and workroom for upholstery and draperies for over 6 years in the Kansas City area. I’ve seen the insides of well known brands. I know how different fabrics wear in real life and I’m here to share my insights.

Thank you for reading!

XO - R